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If your Mfgr. says:
That motor's 7 years old!! Part is no longer available. We lose $$ on service! EPA made me do it! Part's at central warehouse, you'll get it next month. We don't make parts for those. We only do warranty work. Our techs only fix late models. No clue what's wrong! So we'll work time & material.
Your motor needs THREE things to function correctly:
In spite of rule (3) above, I ASSUME you are in possession of basic mechanical skills, have adequate tools, have read my DISCLAIMER on the FAQ page, and have eliminated BOAT and SETUP problems from MECHANICAL ones. If you are unsure, either contact me directly by email or phone, or SEE A CERTIFIED TECH.. Thanks!
Now, lets get down to business.
Often overlooked, most important! In a 2 cycle motor, must exist at proper levels in both cylinders & crankcase for peak performance. Compression should not vary over 15 lbs between cylinders. Any more than that, & you need powerhead work.
Sorry! If that's OK., check "leakdown" or the tendency for the flywheel to "bounce" off compression when flipped by hand. It should resist & tend to recoil back. If it just sorta oozes by, it's probably overhaul time. Occasionally, crankcase compression may be at fault. A running motor that backfires, spits fuel back thru carb, runs "rich" & idles rough may have this problem. Don't overlook it. B:Ignition.
This area is the most troublesome of all systems, and the engineers have had A field day with it. The only consistency is, they all have trouble spots. If you have a late model OMC outboard with "OIS" (Optical ignition System) bite the bullet & get tech help from a dealer with COMPETENT techs (Ask for credentials) and correct tools. Older "CD" systems require only systematic following of the electrical path from key to spark plug . Same for older magneto and battery ignitions. Just imagine it's a water pipe, look for leaks, breaks, and blocks!
TIPS: On CD systems, 250+ volts travel to the key switch, thru a black wire with a yellow stripe. Disconnect this wire at the power pack to eliminate the entire harness & switch from the system. If that does it, choke the outboard to stop it & take corrective action. If you have spark on some cyls and not others, try reversing leads & use logic to isolate bad coils, sensors, packs, etc.. READ your spark plugs! They will tell you more about the condition of your engine than ANY other test! I'm an excellent ignition diagnostician, contact me now for help with your tough electrical troubleshoots. C: Fuel.
This area is LEAST likely to be at fault, and the most abused system. Drain all of your lines, pumps, and carbs every season, and you will probably never have fuel problems, If you are the victim of varnished system and "sour" gas, overhaul the ENTIRE system. REPLACE ALL the fuel lines. Rebuild the FUEL PUMP(S). Otherwise, you'll never get it to run reliably again. As for troubleshooting, remember the plumber & look for leaks, breaks & blocks!
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The information provided on these pages is correct to the best of my knowledge, however the MasterTech makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the use of, results of, or liability created from, application of this data. This information is disseminated in good faith, however MasterTech assumes NO LIABILITY whatsoever in regard to this service. The information, software, products, and services published on this web site may include inaccuracies or typographical errors. Changes are periodically added to the information herein. Mastertech may make improvements to this site at any time. Parts ordered from this website may or may not be in dealer stock at the time of order. Thank you for reading.